Beautiful Oman has always been one of my favorite countries in the Gulf, have lost count how many times I may have visited but each time there is something new to see and experience. During my previous visit, I had the opportunity to visit Wadi Bani Khalid, the Oasis, am sure most of you have read my article about that place. 

This time around I visited Ras Al Jinz, where the giant turtles come to lay their eggs and newly born hatchlings emerge out of sand on the beach and enter the sea. An Odyssey of Giant Turtles begins at Ras Al Jinz, Oman.

My flight from Abu Dhabi landed at Seeb International Airport, Muscat, Oman after midnight and I went straight to my hotel, called my friend to let her know I had arrived safely and crashed out. After all the traveling in Dubai and Abu Dhabi, I had no energy left in me. 

Following day I was picked up from my hotel and went to Lu Lu Mega mart to shop for our lunch and few things to munch along the way. We also needed some soft drinks and water. Once we had done our shopping we were on our way. 

We had an experienced driver who was well versed with the roads and recently serviced car as well. Our first stop was going to be at a town called Sur, approximately 320 kms from Muscat. The drive was exhilarating with beautiful villages some of them fishing hamlets every few kilometers. 

 Sunset soon after we left Sur

We saw few camels in the wild and some domesticated ones. We were able to pet the domesticated ones, one of them must have felt so good, decided to close eyes, rest the head on the ground and go to sleep! 

Once we reached the town of Sur, we took possession of the rental car and let our driver go  and wait for our return the following day. One word of advice here, Sur is the last big town and you must have a car to travel further. 

Driving is fairly straight forward, if you are used to driving in US, Canada and Gulf. Even though I had not driven in Oman before it was not a problem at all. Our driver showed us the way out of Sur and towards Ras Al Had and we were on our way. 

 Domesticated Camel

Ras Al Had is approximately 65 kms from Sur. Along the way we experienced one of the most beautiful Sunsets, I had to stop the car to fully enjoy and to take few pictures as well. The Sun was setting behind a mountain range with ocean in the foreground and few fishing boats. Perfect setup for a photographer like me! 

It was getting dark as we reached Ras Al Had Beach Resort Hotel that we had booked from Muscat. Another word of advice, please call and book hotel from Muscat before you leave for Ras Al Had. 

Our hotel manager was expecting us, provided us with all the necessary information regarding the directions to the beach, forms to fill out and about dinner. He was so helpful, even went out of the way to make sure our stay was comfortable. 

We went to our rooms, freshened up and met to go over the map, have a quick bite and drinks. Hotel room was very nice, spacious, comfortable, clean with beautiful view of the ocean and most importantly air conditioned. 

We left the hotel at 9pm to the beach in Ras Al Jinz where the turtles actually come to nest. It is approximately 16 kilometers away from our hotel in Ras Al Had, was little difficult to find, some portion of the road was not paved and had no street lights. 

But we reached the village without further difficulty and as we were about to enter the protected area, there is an office where we have to submit the forms that we had previously filled. There is a nominal fee and once that was paid, we were instructed to proceed and wait at a designated area for the ranger to arrive.

Our first glimpse of what awaited us on the beach was in an aquarium filled with baby Greenback turtles. They looked so cute but we both wished they were in the ocean where they actually belonged. 

As we were just waiting, we decided why not go for a walk on the beach, the sound of the waves was so soothing to our ear combined with the cool breeze made it that much pleasanter.

It was a full moon day and as the waves crashed against rocks, the surf lit up  in the moonlight, a sight and sound that we will remember for a long time to come.

We did see a turtle that was just coming to lay her eggs and we kept our distance so as not to disturb her. The track she made was quite a sight to watch.The scene may have been right out of a book on nature written by God for us mortals to see and enjoy His creation.

These turtles have been around for millions of years and have seen emergence of Dinasaurs and have survived catastrophic events of nature. We are just newcomers to this world and have absolutely no right to interfere with their life cycle.

As we were there mesmerized looking at the turtle, a big wave surprised us and we had to run from getting completely wet.

We decided to return to the waiting area, along the way we saw huts that can be rented for a nominal fee and people were doing just that and some were even BBQing. We felt it was a neat idea and must be quite an experience.

As we were waiting, another couple arrived and they were from UK, we befriended them and talked about our mutual interest and love for nature. They turned out to be good company for us and were always on the look out for us, if they saw something interesting. 

At exactly the appointed time the ranger arrived and instructed us to follow him. We drove in our cars a short distance of about a kilometer and parked our cars at the designated area. The full moon was a boon for us as it improved the visibility that much more. 

There must have been at least 100 people of all different nationalities that had gathered and the ranger requested us all to stand in a circle. He was very knowledgeable and in his thick Arabic accent gave us in English substantial information about the turtles. 

Most common turtles to visit the beach at Ras Al Had are Giant Greenbacks; they lay about 120 eggs once in four years. Some older ones may lay their eggs 2 to 3 times in a year.

The newly born female hatchlings once they return to ocean only come back 20 years later to nest at the same place they were born and the life cycle goes on. Male turtles do not return once they entered the ocean. 

The Green Turtle's are locally called 'Hamas', 'Shiree' or 'Sul Hafah Al Khuthera'. 

Sad part is only 2 or 3 hatchlings survive out of the 1000 that are born. Starting from the time the eggs are laid and hatched, there are wild dogs called Payads that can smell, dig up and eat eggs and hatchlings even before they emerge from the sand. 

Then as they are on their way to ocean, foxes, seagulls, dogs are waiting for them. Once they enter the ocean, most of them swim on the surface and again fall prey to Seagulls and fish. But that is natures way of controlling their population and providing food for His other creations. 

Important part is they are protected by the most dangerous predators of allMan! We were told by the British couple that the locals like the turtle eggs and hatchlings as food and since the protection of these wonderful creatures started, slowly the practice is dying. 

Once the ranger had completed his brief but detailed talk about the turtles, he took us to the beach. We four of us stayed together and what awaited us was a sight to behold, truly marvel of nature.

The ranger did tell us not use flash for photographing turtles during the night but we could in the morning.

It was like we were entering a new planet.Planet of Giant Turtles! There were turtles coming to lay eggs, there were turtles returning to ocean, turtles in the process of laying eggs and hatchlings emerging from deep within sand.   

To nature lovers like us this was a sight worth absorbing and admiring as it unfolded. Our ranger cum guide and his colleagues were so good at spotting the sites where the hatchlings were emerging. 

It was a treat to watch him gathering all the hatchlings and releasing them into the ocean. 

Another interesting feature the ranger pointed out to us was these new hatchlings are light sensitive. If a flashlight is shined at them from behind, they turned back to the source  of the light instead of going to the ocean! In the morning they look at the Sun and scamper to the ocean. 

It was close to midnight by the time we decided to call it a day and return to our hotel. As we were approaching the hotel my friend suddenly said Baab there is no petrol in the car and I looked at the fuel gauge and my heart almost sank to my boot! The needle had gone below redline! 

Our hotel manager was awake and was waiting for our arrival, first priority was to ask him if there is any petrol station and I held my breath as soon as I asked him that question. He said come with me and took us outside the hotel and pointed to a distant red light and said that is a petrol station. 

We were hungry and our legs desperately needed to rest. We thanked him and requested  to send our dinner upstairs to our room. We quickly cleaned off sand from our feet and enjoyed the mutton biriyani and raita that was specially prepared for us. 

We said goodnight and agreed to wake up at 4-30am for another visit to Ras Al Jinz. I was so tired, the moment I lay down, I was out like a light. Out of force of habit, I was up at 4am and buzzed the next room to wake my friend up. 

At exactly 4-30am we were on our way again to the beach but not before we visited the petrol station. After about fifteen minutes of waiting and honking, the owner did come and to our surprise it was a manual procedure.

He opened a tap from a large tank, filled petrol in a large measuring can and manually poured the petrol to the car tank. Fascinating scene and we had petrol. 

In the morning there are no rangers and also we are free to use our camera flashes. 

We were once again able to see turtles returning to the ocean, laying eggs, hatchlings emerging, Payads' digging eggs and eat hatchlings. We just couldnt stand there and watch, we chased them away knowing very well that they will return soon. 

We were able to dig out these hatchlings, carry them in our hands and release them into the ocean. 

The Sunrise we saw was so gorgeous likes of which I have never seen my life. First Sunrise of Arabian Peninsula with all its majestic color and grandeur. 

Morning light as the Sun made his grand entrance; waves crashing against rocks was a scene right out of a book.

Early morning Sunlight reflecting off the surrounding mountains and beach was a sight a romantic would crave for. 

As time passed and the sun began to get brighter, mountains began to look different as well as the entire landscape.

At 7am we all decided to return to our hotel, we bid farewell to our British friends and drove back. We were able to see another what appeared to be wild camel.

We had a much needed hot shower, changed and went downstairs to have breakfast which by the way is on the house. 

Food was excellent with choice of bread, juices, fruits, coffee and tea. Upon request they also prepare eggs the way you want. Once we finished our breakfast we returned to my room to discuss how to spend another 3 hours. 

Their main eating area is designed to look like a boat, a dhow and their rooms for the guests are little huts! 

The view of our resort from there was out of this world. There is also a palace close by but we were not too keen on visiting. 

We returned to our hotel around 11am and my friend said let us take a look at all the pictures. Another surprise awaited us; I can only say luck was on my side because I had two cameras. I had forgotten to pack the USB cable in Bangalore that would link my camera to the Laptop. 

Between Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Ras Al Had and Ras Al Jinz I had taken a total of 180 pictures and between the cameras I still had another 120 more to go but it was disappointing to say the least that I did not pack the cable!!! 

However much I was disappointed, I consoled myself that I have pictures of everything I wanted. 

Our return trip to Sur and then on to Muscat was uneventful, a trip we both will cherish for rest of our lives. 

I recommend this trip as a must if you are ever in Muscat! If you leave early in the morning you can combine both Wadi Bani Khalid the Oasis and Ras Al Jinz. 

Travel Tips:

Muscat, Oman is very well connected by all major International Carriers. 

All types of hotel accommodations are available to suit ones budget. 

Best time to visit is during winter months but the peak time to see the turtles is March to September. 

During the holiday season be sure to book your hotel well in advance. As we found out during Eid holidays, all hotel rooms were booked at Ras Al Had. 

Rent a car either in Muscat or make arrangement for one in Sur and make sure the gas tank is full before you leave Sur.

Plans are underway for more hotels, an airport at Ras Al Had and a museum dedicated to turtles.

Wear loose fitting cotton clothes and carry drinking water as there are not many gas stations after you leave Sur.

Dont forget your camera and the accessories.